SILK
The fabric that makes its own statement. Say "silk" to someone and what do they visualize? No other fabric generates quite the same reaction. For centuries silk has had a reputation as a luxurious and sensuous fabric, one associated with wealth and success. Silk is one of the oldest textile fibers known to man. It has been used by the Chinese since the 27th century BC. Silk is mentioned by Aristotle and became a valuable commodity both in Greece and Rome. During the Roman Empire, silk was sold for its weight in gold.
Today, silk is yet another word for elegance, and silk garments are prized for their versatility, wearability and comfort. Silk, or soie in French, is the strongest natural fiber. A steel filament of the same diameter as silk will break before a filament of silk. Silk absorbs moisture, which makes it cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Because of its high absorbency, it is easily dyed in many deep colors. Silk retains its shape, drapes well, caresses the figure, and shimmers with a luster all its own.
Contemporary silk garments range from evening wear to sports wear. A silk suit can go to the office and, with a change of accessories and a blouse, transform into an elegant dinner ensemble. Silk garments can be worn for all seasons
Care: Most silk fabrics can be hand washed. Technically, silk does not shrink like other fibers. If the fabric is not tightly woven, washing a silk will tighten up the weave.... thus, lighter weights of silk (say a crepe de chine of 14 mm) can be improved by washing as it will tighten up the weave. A tightly woven silk will not "shrink" or will "shrink" a lot less. Silk garments, however, can shrink if the fabric has not been washed prior to garment construction. When washing silk, do not wring but roll in a towel. Silk dries quickly but should not be put in an automatic dryer unless the fabric is dried in an automatic dryer prior to garment construction. A good shampoo works well on silk. It will remove oil and revitalize your silk. Do not use an alkaline shampoo or one which contains ingredients such as wax, petroleum, or their derivatives, as these products will leave a residue on your silk and may cause "oil" spots. If static or clinging is a problem with your silks, a good hair conditioner (see above cautions) may be used in the rinse water.
Silk may yellow and fade with the use of a high iron setting. Press cloths and a steam iron are recommended. Silk is also weakened by sunlight and perspiration.
Brocade is a jacquard weave with an embossed effect and contrasting surfaces. Can also be woven with synthetic or man-made fibers.
Canton Crepe is a soft crepe woven fabric with small crosswise ribs. Similar to crepe de chine but heavier.
Charmeuse is a satin weave silk with a crepe back sometimes called crepe backed satin.
Chiffon is transparent soft and light silk. Can also be woven of cotton or man-made fibers.
China silk is a plain weave silk of various weights. This silk is the "hand" or touch that many people identify as silk. There are various weights of China silk from light, used for linings and many "washable silks" with the wrinkled look, to heavy for shirts and dresses.
Doupioni is reeled from double cocoons nested together. The threads are uneven and irregular. Italian Doupioni is the finest, followed by Chinese Doupioni and Indian Doupioni. Doupioni is also seen in man-made fibers such as polyester, acetate and referred to as Doupionini. Silk Doupioni is most often found in men’s and women’s fine suits and also dresses in lighter weight silk Doupioni.
Faille soft ribbed silk with wider ribs than seen in grosgrain ribbon. Slightly glossy.
Georgette sheer crepe silk, heavier than chiffon and with a crinkle surface.
Matelasse has raised woven designs, usually jacquard, with the appearance of puckered or quilted.
Noil is sportier in appearance and created by short fibers, often from the innermost part of the cocoon. Has the look of hopsack but much softer.
Organza is similar to cotton organdy except it is made with silk and is transparent.
Peau de Soie is a stout, soft silk with fine cross ribs. Looks slightly corded. Also called paduasoy.
Pongee is a plain woven, thin, naturally tan fabric that has a rough weave effect.
Poult de soie is sometimes called faille taffeta. It has heavy cross ribs.
Silk Shantung is a dupionni type of silk that comes from the Shantung Prov. of China.
Silk Broadcloth is a plain weave silk in various weights; crisper than china silk. Often used in shirting.
Silk linen has a nubby yarn in a plain weave. Weights range from light to heavy. It is different from Dupion in that the nubby runs both lengthwise and crosswise. The look of linen with the characteristics of linen.
Silk satin is a satin weave with a plain back.
Tussah silk (tussah means wild) is a plain weave silk fabric from "wild" silk worms. It has irregular thick and thin yarns creating uneven surface and color. Wild silkworms feed on leaves other than mulberry leaves.Tussah silk is similar to shantung, with silk from the wild. Color is often uneven; usually referred to as "raw" silk.
Silk is also available in other weaves such as velvet and corduroy.
COTTON
Cotton, cool, soft, comfortable, the principal clothing fiber of the world. Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability. Cotton "breathes". What would we do without cotton?
The cotton fiber is from the cotton plant’s seed pod. The fiber is hollow in the center and, under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. "Absorbent" cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fiber absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe". Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Cotton is often blended with other fibers such as polyester, linen, wool, to "blend" the best properties of each fiber.
Care: Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove color in dyed cottons. Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well.
Mercerized cotton is treated to permanently straighten the cotton fibers which then becomes a smooth, rod-like fiber that is uniform in appearance with a high luster.
Flannel cotton is plain or twill weave with a slight nap on one or both sides.
Gingham is a lightweight, washable, stout fabric that is woven in checks, plaids or stripes.
Oxford is shirting fabric with a lustrous, soft finish. It is characterized with narrow stripes and can be woven in plain or basket weave. Also a term used for wool fabric that has black and white fibers.
Pima Cotton, from Egyptian cotton, is an excellent quality cotton fabric.
Sateen is a satin weave cotton fabric.
Seersucker is a lightweight cotton fabric crinkled into lengthwise stripes.
Fabric Guide
LINEN
Elegant, beautiful, durable, the refined luxury fabric. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation. Not only is the linen fiber strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the luster of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.
Linen is from flax, a bast fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily. Linen, like cotton, can also be boiled without damaging the fiber.
Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, this fabric is cool in garments. However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily.
HEMP
is currently being used by designers in clothing. When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. No, hemp fabric does not contain the narcotic chemical that, when smoked produces the "high" that smoking marijuana produces. Marijuana is from the dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa plant. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant. The stems are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibers which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric. The finest hemp for fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibers.
RAMIE
is also similar to linen and is a bast of plant fiber. It is natural white in color, has a high luster and an unusual resistance to bacteria and molds. Used in fabrics, and often mistaken for linen, it is extremely absorbent and dries quickly. Ramie has excellent abrasion resistance and has been tested to be three to five times stronger than cotton and twice as strong as flax. It is an inexpensive fiber from an East Asian plant and can be spun or woven into a fabric.
JUTE
is a glossy fiber from a plant. It is seen most often in sacks, rope, twine, and as backing on carpeting.
WOOL
Wool fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool’s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.
Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.
CARE: For great tips on washing your wool: Machine wash guide: http://www.textileaffairs.com/c-common.htm
WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS
although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.
Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.
Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair’s luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.
Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.
Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel’s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel’s hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.
Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.
Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard
Botany/Merino wool is a fine wool made from worsted wool yarn.
Houndstooth check has a four pointed star check in a broken twill weave.
Jersey is a knit fabric that is usually knit in fine wool but can also be found in silk, and man-made fibers.
Laine is French for "wool".
Lambsdown is a heavy knit fabric that has a spongy fleeced nap on one side.
Herringbone wool is woven in a twill that is reversed at regular spacing, creating a sawtooth line.
Homespun is a loose, strong, durable woolen woven either by hand or machine with a coarse feel
Tweed is a rough textured wool, originally homespun and slightly felted. This fabric is sturdy with a mottled color.
Virgin Wool is wool that has never been processed into fabric.
MANUFACTURED FABRICS
Manufactured Fabrics are usually made of filaments extruded as liquid and formed into various fibers. Because the fiber starts as a liquid, many of the fibers are colored before they become filament, thus they are difficult to dye after the fiber is woven into a fabric.
ACETATE is not a strong fiber but can be extruded into fibers of different diameter and woven into fabrics that have the luxurious look of silk but do not wear like silk. Acetate does not absorb moisture readily but dries fast and resists shrinking. This is a resilient fabric that resists wrinkling in addition to being pliable and soft with a good drape. Triacetate is an improved acetate fabric which doesn’t melt as easier and is easier to care for. Remember, acetate in nail polish and nail polish remover will melt acetate as will alcohol so take care with perfumes and nail products including SuperGlue.
ACRYLIC is a fine soft and luxurious fabric with the bulk and hand of wool. Light weight and springy, this fabric is non-allergenic, dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body and is washable. Acrylic does not take even a moderate amount of heat. Modacrylics are used in pile fabrics like fake fur and are more flame resistant.
LASTEX is an elastic fiber made from Latex. It is most often used with other fibers to create fabrics such as Spandex and foundation garments. Lastex will deteriorate after repeated washing and drying, losing its elasticity.
NYLON became a household word in 1940 when it was knitted into hosiery. In 1942 it was called into service for the armed forces use in parachutes, flak vests, combat uniforms, tires and many other vital military uses. Until the war was over nylon was not available to the public. Nylon became one of the most versatile fibers of the man-made fabrics. In addition to hosiery, nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal veils, and in carpeting.
Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fiber. It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibers are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn’t cling to this smooth fiber nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon whites should be washed separately to avoid graying. This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently with sodium perborate bleach.
Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the wrong side.
POLYESTER is a strong fiber that is resistant to crease and thus keeps it shape. Polyester melts at medium to high temperatures. Although many people dislike polyester, perhaps due to the double knit fad of the 1950, polyester remains a versatile and important man-made fabric. Blends of polyester give cotton a permanent press property and extend the wear of these blended garments.
Polyester is manufactured in many weights including fiber-fill used in pillows and upholstery. Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear exceptionally well, and are used extensively in home sewing and manufactured sewing.
RAYON, from cellulose, has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures.
Rayon drapes well, has a soft, silky hand, and has a smooth, napped, or bulky surface. Rayon will wrinkle easily and may stretch when wet and shrink when washed.
Technological advancemnts to the rayon process have produced high wet modulus [HWM] rayons such as lyocell and modal which makes fabric less prone to stretch when damp or wet.
Washable rayon will state the care on the fabric label. Like silk, if you pre-wash rayon fabric prior to construction of the garment, you have a washable garment.
VELVET, although made from silk, is most often produced from the rayon fiber.
SPANDEX is an elastic type fiber that can be stretched many times its length and then spring back to the original length. Spandex is more resistant to washing, perspiration, and heat than latex. Spandex is used in foundation garments and hosiery.
General Fabric Care
Generally, the best rule is to follow the care instructions on the manufacturer’s label. If there is no label and/or you wish to wash a garment or fabric at home instead of dry clean, the properties of each fabric will help you determine the care of the fabric or garment.
Dry Cleaning is by definition, cleaning with solvents and little or no water. The combination of solvents and heat is hard on fabrics and may cause as much wear as actual wearing of the garment. Perchlorethylene, the cleaning fluid used by most dry cleaners, is the most effective cleaner so far for most all types of fabrics. However, "perc" as it is called in the dry-cleaning industry is classified as a hazardous air pollutant by the Clean Air Act. Perc is toxic. Dry cleaning customers should take their garments out of the plastic bags and air their garments after dry cleaning.
You, the consumer, can inform yourself when selecting a dry cleaner. Common sense will cover the basic questions such as the appearance of the dry cleaning store - - - Is it neat and clean or dirty and cluttered? Is the location convenient and are they open when you need to drop of or pick up your dry cleaning?
Technical considerations include solvent purity. Solvent must be distilled to remove greases, oils, waxes and dyes. Poor solvent purity or quality can result in an objectionable odor in the garment and a "graying" of white clothing.
Pressing after cleaning should also be considered. Most anyone can press wool pants but it takes a skilled professional presser to do a quality job on linen and silk items. If the dry cleaner cannot explain the difference in pressing linen and silk versus wool directly and authoritatively, it is doubtful that these garments will be handled with the care they require. Linen can withstand higher heat when ironed, and should be pressed when damp. Silk requires a lower temperature iron and should be steam ironed, preferably with a press cloth. Wool should be pressed with steam and a moderate temperature.
Packaging of the cleaned garment is also important. A garment can be cleaned and pressed well but if it is jammed into a small bag, it can become a wrinkled mess. Jamming too many finished and bagged garments into the dry cleaners rack can also wrinkle finished garments.
Finally, develop a dialogue with your dry cleaner. Note the type of stains that you have on your garment and list it for the dry cleaner. Their pre-spotting will help eliminate stains that could otherwise be heat set after the garment is cleaned.
Be an informed and fair consumer. Not all spots can be removed especially if you, the consumer, have pressed the stain into the fabric. Many stains can be heat set. Garment care is the responsibility of both you and your dry cleaner.
Wet Cleaning is described as a new process by some cleaning establishments. They advertise that their process will replace dry cleaning and the environmentally dangerous solvents they use. However, until this process is perfected and proven to effectively replace dry cleaning, caution should be used by the consumer. Wet cleaning is accomplished by using water based chemicals. Some cleaning establishments actually claim to have this service but just hand wash the garment and then professionally press the garment. This process works well with some fabrics which have manufacturers labels stating "hand wash". Garments with labels printed "dry clean only" may shrink, fade, or wrinkle so badly that pressing does not restore then original look of the fabric.
New "wet cleaning" stores are available in some areas. The "wet cleaning" process involves computer controlled machines, soap, conditioners and finishers. This new process is supposed to replace dry cleaning. However, until the wet cleaning process has been thoroughly tested, care should be taken before taking your favorite "dry clean only" garments to the new establishments. Outer fabric, interfacings, linings, shoulder pads, and finishes all react differently when washed. Some fabrics shrink or change shape when washed. Some shoulder pads are designed for dry cleaning only and may fall apart when washed.
Professional laundering is offered by most dry cleaners. Washable garments are professionally washed and pressed. Men’s and women’s shirts are often bleached and starched according to the manufacturers label. Some of the laundering is done with very hot water which may shrink the interfacing or stiffening used in collars and cuffs. Less expensive garments may use interfacing that either shrinks or comes loose with very hot water. These garments cannot be fixed.
Starching shirts and other cotton or cotton/polyester garments is common. The basic function of starch is to stiffen the garment. Incidental use is to prevent stains from penetrating the fiber. However, starch leaves minute crystals in the fiber and can often wear the garment out faster than a garment that has not been starched. The choice is then appearance versus longer life for your garment.
Home Laundering is not only easier to control but can add life to your garments. Choosing a detergent for home laundering is a daunting task!
Detergents are chemical compounds that contain wetting agents and emulsifiers. Technically detergents are called "Synthetic Detergents" as they are not made from fats and lye from which soap is made. Generally the labels on the detergent inform you, the consumer, and make the choice easier.
General purpose laundry detergents work well on most washable fabrics. Some detergents take more product for each wash as fillers are used by the detergent manufacture. Recently, detergent companies have started to reduce the amount of fillers in their products, thus the amount of detergent required per load of laundry is less. Read the label to determine various additives. Added bleach may gradually remove the dyes or color unless the garment is colorfast to bleach. Most all detergents have "surfactants" this is nothing new. Whiteners can be either bleach or bluing agents. More expensive is not always better.
Soap is not the same as detergents. All detergents are soaps but not all soaps are detergents. Confused? Soap was first used in 600 BC Soap was first made by boiling goat fat, water, and ash high in potassium carbonate. Although soap has been improved over the years, it still leaves a deposit we call "soap scum" in the shower and bath. This scum is difficult to remove from fabrics if soap is used in the laundry.
Chlorine bleaches can safely be used on cotton, cotton/polyester and some man made fabrics. Consult the garment care label or properties of individual fibers listed in this booklet.
Hand washing detergents can be used for home laundry when cleaning fine fabrics. These products are often effective when using cold water. However, not all hand washing detergents are milder than regular laundry products although they are often more expensive. Properties to look for when using hand washing detergents include use in cold water, quick dissolving in cold water, and complete rinsing of the detergent after the wash.
To test hand washing detergents or any detergent, dissolve recommended amount of detergent in a quart of cold water. Allow the detergent and water to sit for 24 hours. Note the residue, if any, in the bottom of the quart jar. This residue may be difficult to rinse out of your garment.
Shampoos can also be used for hand washing garments. Use a good shampoo, not one containing "creme rinse". If your shampoo cleans your hair and leaves it shiny with no residues, it usually cleans your garment too.
Fabric softeners, both liquid and dryer sheets, add products to your fabrics. Some of the softeners are wax based which leaves a coating on the fibers creating a feel of softer but reducing the absorbency of the fiber. Some softeners have a perfume that is allergy related for many people. If you have ever used a fabric softener dryer sheet with your polyester garments, you may have seen "grease" spots appear on your garment. This is actually a wax and can be removed by re-washing.
Eco-Fibres – Are They Here to Stay?
By Julian Pollock
Eco-fibres are now a growing force in the fabric and textile industry. They are likely to be the next step in moving towards a healthier, sustainable global environment. Eco-fibres are environmentally safe, renewable sustainable resources that are becoming the fabric choice of conscientious consumers everywhere. So move over, commercial cotton – you have some very healthy competition.
What are eco-fibres?
Eco-fibres are the raw materials used to manufacture textiles without using pesticides, chemicals, or synthetic fertilizers. They are resistant to mold and mildew, are free from disease and many are considered hypo-allergenic. There are several types of eco-fibres that are commercially available including bamboo, hemp, soya, flax (linen), seaweed and even recycled plastic, along with the more commonly used organic cotton, organic wool and silk.
What are the advantages of organic cotton over commercial cotton?
Organic cotton has several advantages over commercially produced cotton. Because organic cotton is grown with no chemicals or pesticides, it will not induce allergic reactions that commercial cotton might. Cotton is typically used in clothing and bedding and the by-products and toxins in commercially grown cotton can cause skin irritation such as redness, rashes and itching. Of paramount importance is the fact that cotton is commonly used in children’s and baby clothing and an allergic reaction may not be the suspected culprit. There is no irradiation or genetic engineering involved in the production of organic cotton. As the insects that invade cotton become immune to the chemicals involved in production, new chemicals are used on an ongoing basis. By choosing organic cotton, your customers are choosing a product that will prevent them from being affected by any of these new chemical products.
Each t-shirt made with commercial cotton uses a quarter of a pound of chemical pesticides and fertilizers. These chemicals run off and contaminate ground water, plant and animal life found in streams and rivers and drinking water.
What eco-fibres are most commonly used?
Hemp
Hemp is one of the strongest fibres found in nature. It has 8 times the strength of cotton, causing it to also be an extremely durable textile. Hemp is resistant to UV light, mold and mildew, salt water and abrasion. Hemp provides greater insulating qualities than cotton and is quite absorbent. Hemp can be easily blended with organic cotton and the finished product is both soft and comfortable.
Hemp is a bark fibre, rather than a seed fibre, which means it grows nicely without the use of any herbicides, pesticides, chemical fertilizers, or fungicides. This is particularly admirable when compared with commercial cotton, which uses almost half of the agricultural chemicals used on US crops. Hemp is a sustainable, renewable resource. Because it grows quickly, a hemp field can be re-planted and harvested each year, with minimal damage to the soil.
Bamboo
Bamboo is a natural fibre that is grown in China without the use of any pesticides. It is a self-regenerating plant that grows to full maturity in about seven years. The bamboo is distilled into cellulose fiber which can then be manufactured according to the highest industrial standards.
Bamboo has naturally occurring anti-bacterial properties which makes it extremely suitable for clothing, in particular baby clothing and clothing for people that suffer allergies to other fabrics. These natural anti-bacterial characteristics, as well as the deodorizing factors and the bacteriostatic qualities of bamboo come from a bio-agent named bamboo kun, which is combined with the cellulose product during the manufacturing product. Even after as many as 50 washings, this anti-bacterial factor remains and will eliminate more than 70% of bacteria on the fabric.
Bamboo is often blended with organic cotton and linen, comprising a textile that one designer calls ecoKashmere ™, because of its amazing softness. In fact, bamboo can be blended with many other organic and non-organic fabrics very effectively. Clothing made from bamboo is washable and remains free of wrinkles. It also does not fray, making it much more durable than other fabrics.
The future of eco-fibres
There are other eco-fibres used in addition to hemp and bamboo such as seaweed, soy, flax (linen) and even recycled plastics used in textiles. While it is impossible to predict where future market trends will travel, as the world becomes more environmentally conscious, eco-fibres will likely continue to grow in popularity.
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Julian Pollock has had a lifetime interest in a natural and altruistic approach to life. This is reflected in the offers of free meditation and relaxation recordings at organicfamilycircle.com. This site presents a pragmatic approach to selecting organic baby and family products. (Site featured: http://organicfamilycircle.com)
8 Little Known Ways to Get Rid of Fabric Stains
By Tom Chianelli
Chianelli Designs
It is so easy to get a stain on your fabric, so why does it have to be so hard to get rid of it? Not only is it hard, it can be expensive too! Being in the designer furniture business, I've heard my share of horror stories. From candle wax to blood, people have come to me asking if there is an easy way to get rid of their stains. In most cases there are solutions you can create at home followed up with water-based shampoo that will do the trick.
Here are the top 8 little known ways to get rid of your fabric stains:
1. Blood. Believe it or not it can come out. This trick depends on how much blood there is. First, you want to treat the stain with a cold water and table salt mixture (2 tablespoons of salt to 1 quart of water). Rinse and blot with a towel. If the stain persists, try using diluted ammonia.
2. Candle Wax. From past experience I've learned not to ask how it got there. Luckily, you have more than one way to clean up this stain. The first step is to gently scrape away the surface wax with a spatula or a dull knife. Now you have two options: you can either spot clean with a water-free cleaning solvent or you can get creative. Getting creative involves covering the spot with several layers of paper towels and applying a warm iron. This should heat the wax and make it easy to scrape off.
3. Chewing Gum. If you think the only way to get chewing gum out of your fabric is by the same method you got it out of your child's hair, hopefully you found this guide first. All you have to do is freeze the gum with ice and then use a spatula or dull knife to remove it.
4. Chocolate and Coffee. Chocolate and coffee are two very easy stains to remove from your fabric. Just dampen a sponge with lukewarm water and blot the stain.
5. Ink and Markers. Flipping cushions over to hide stains is often a quick and easy solution, especially when it comes to noticeable stains like ink. Before you start flipping and rotating, try using rubbing alcohol to lift the stain.
6. Mud. Whether it is there from your pets or your kids, the fact is the stain is there and it needs to be given the appropriate attention. The first step is to lift away whatever can be removed easily with a spatula or a dull knife. Let the mud dry, and then vacuum it. If the stain persists, clean it with a cloth dampened with ammonia-water solution.
7. Vomit. You wouldn't expect vomit stains to come out very easily. The truth is that they can be easily removed if you follow these steps. Begin by treating the stain with cold water. Follow up with unseasoned meat tenderizer (seriously). Let is sit for 10-15 minutes and then rinse, let dry, and vacuum.
8. Wine and Alcohol. Sometimes those parties can really get out of hand. You're going to have to take a couple extra steps with this stain. Spot clean only with water-based shampoo or foam upholstery cleaner. Make sure that you pretest for color loss and fabric compatibility. Do not over wet.
Some stains are easier to get out then others. There are many factors that play into the difficulty in lifting a stain from the fabric (i.e. age of stain). Remember, if you are unsure of how you should clean any piece of fabric, pay the money and have it done professionally.
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About the author:
Tom Chianelli is the owner of Chianelli Designs Inc. http://www.chianelli.com. Chianelli Designs specializes in selling designer furniture at discounted prices.
* Click on the links above to find information on the fabrics, their respective weaves, and tips on how to care for them.
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